DIY Wax Luminaries

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Good morning, Thursday readers.

I found a really cool tutorial from Candle Tech that caught my eye and initially I thought it might be a little silly, but the more I looked at it, the more I liked it. Tea light/votive holders made from wax. I know it sounds counterintuitive, but what makes it work is the type of wax used. And plus, they look really cool.

You do need some supplies and tools: High-melt paraffin wax – IGI-1260 – (this one is super important – don’t use something that isn’t high melt), party balloons, a double boiler and a cookie sheet with parchment paper. You will need to start by filling your balloon with tepid water.

Your next step is to melt your wax in a double boiler. The best temperature for this project is 180 degrees Fahrenheit.  Using a double boiler will help to keep things from overheating, and you can use a thermometer to double check if you have one.

Slowly dip your balloon into the wax to just below the water level inside the balloon. If you go past the water level, your balloon can pop. Hold the balloon in the wax for a few seconds and then slowly lift it out. Let it cool between dips, but you’ll need to do this a few more times to get a good thickness of wax on the balloon.

When the wax is still fairly warm, put the balloon on a piece of parchment or on a cookie sheet. This will allow a flat bottom to be created so it’s level and won’t topple over. Allow to cool a little, and then repeat the above process a few more times. You’re going to want a thickness of about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch of wax on your balloon. Set it aside again to let it cool.

 

When the water inside the balloon and the wax are completely cool, holding the wax portion so it doesn’t fall and aiming the mouth away from you, pop the balloon over this sink with something sharp to let the water drain out and toss the deflated rubber.

If the top of your luminary isn’t level, that’s okay. There’s an easy fix, since you’re working with wax. Just heat up a cookie sheet in the oven and place the luminary top down onto the hot metal (you can put some parchment paper down to catch the wax) and melt the edges until it’s level. You can wipe the paper with a paper towel if you’re going to need to do it a couple times.

And you’re ready to go with a tea light or a votive (remember, votives need some kind of container to keep them from melting everywhere). So long as you’re just using those types of candles, the luminary won’t melt. Remember, it’s high temp wax, so you need more heat to melt it. If you want to add some colour to your wax, you can add some crushed crayons (though it might make them a little less transparant). You can also think about adding glitter or even doing a few white layers of wax as a base with a couple colour layers over top. You could even dip the top rim in glitter once you’ve melted it to make it level or you might want to carve your creations afterwards… but regardless of what you end up doing, they do look super cool!

Happy Crafting!

~Megan

 

 

 


DIY: Vintage Light Fixture Revamp

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Hi there Thursday Crafthackers!

I found a DIY that looks much more complicated than it is, and it is a great way to bring vintage into your home  – or your apartment. The best part is, is that it uses the base of light fixtures that I see in almost every apartment that I’ve been in, and they’re in my apartment right now.

You can find the original tutorial here on A Beautiful Mess, and you really can do any colour you prefer, given that you can use spray paint to either match the pieces to each other or do do it in another colour entirely. You do need some supplies and tools, though. You’ll need a sunburst mirror frame, like this one. You can use any mirror frame as long as it’s easy to remove the mirror so you can use the base. You’ll need a ceiling flush mount light small enough to sit inside your mirror frame, like this one. You will also need gold (or your choice of colour) spray paint, painter’s tape as well as screws and a drill.

As always, we recommend safety first, so since we’re getting into working with light fixtures, you can do this project together with an electrician or a friend with experience, or you can use this guide to help guide your experience. Please make sure that your power is off whenever you’re working on a light fixture. We don’t want any mishaps.

So, depending on what method you choose, you may need to remove the existing light fixture. Since this tutorial uses a light that is a few inches smaller than the mirror frame, paint was added to the ceiling area that would be showing in between the fixture and the mirror. All you need to do is place each fixture where it will go, trace around them and tape off the area that you’re not painting. If you’re worried about using spray paint and the fact that it is airborne and can go anywhere, you can use a liquid paint and brush. Remove the tape when dry (see above).

Using the same paint, paint the base of the light fixture. Just make sure to tape off the back so that there’s no electrical parts that get painted. Add your light bulb and globe shade.

On the mirror frame, you can bend back any tabs that hold the mirror in place and remove the mirror and any backing material from the middle. Just give this frame a coat of the same paint that you used for the rest of the project so that it looks like one unit and there’s no odd colour difference. You can just use 4 screws and wedge them between the spokes of the frame to hold it in place.

When your light fixture is secure, you’re done! It looks fabulous in the gold, but if you’re going for a different kind of retro vibe, you could use a beautiful teal spray paint, or copper. Whatever colour suits your mood and decor!

Happy crafting!

~Megan


DIY: Wine Bottle Chandelier

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Hi there Thursday Crafthackers!
I have for you a super cool tutorial that is relatively easy but still will take some time and some tools. The end result is super cool, and there are a number of different ways that you can do something like this.

There’s a number of different styles, and a number of different complexities in doing the electrical wiring for this. I thought this one was super cool. To do this you will need wine bottles – these ones were clear and then painted for colour, but you can absolutely do regular wine bottles if you like the green/brown hues.  If you’re liking the look of this (the original can be found here at Mod Podge Rocks Blog), and others like this tutorial, you might need this previous post on how to cut bottles safely. Make sure you follow the steps to sand down the edges, and if you would like to take any labels off, now would be the time.

This tutorial uses Mod Podge sheer colours, but there are methods to make the colours yourself with just one jar of Mod Podge (see if you can find a sheer one) and food colouring. You can find my tutorial for the ratios and the how to on the colour here (including how to set it). Use whichever you have the time and comfort level for. You’ll need the basics of the world of crafting, so craft paper/wax paper or a non stick craft mat, a craft knife, and you will also need the pendant light hardware kits which you should be able to find easily at any hardware store, or at an online retailer like Amazon.

Whether  you make your own colours or buy pre tinted Mod Podge, your first step is to get the inside of your bottles covered. You can do this by adding a generous amount of glue/colour to the inside of the bottle and swirling it around inside until it is covered. Try to get as far up the neck as possible so you get consistent colour all the way up. Do this to each bottle. Whether you use the same, themed or different colours is up to you. If you’re making your own colours, remember that you can change your one batch of colour just by adding other colours of food colouring to change the tints. You’ll either need to follow the directions in the previously mentioned tutorial for baking the wine bottles, or you will need to let them dry overnight (sitting on the mouth of the bottle to get maxiumum air flow) After they’re dry, if you want to add any stencils or glitter, now is the time.

The original poster used a light fixture like this. They didn’t use the switch on the cord, and cut the cord before that point since they manually are wiring everything together.

The wiring was cut about 2 feet from the bulb socket base, but you can do them longer or shorter based on the needs of your space. If there is a switch on your fixture, you can cut below it if you aren’t using it. Above if you would like to keep it.

Run the cut end of the cord up through the neck of the bottle so that the bulb socket fits nicely in the taper.

Expose the ends of each of the wires using your wire cutters to peel away the plastic coating (there will be 12 wires, hot and a neutral for each lamp or 18 if the kit is wired for a ground). This tutorial used a room that already had a simple ceiling fixture on a wall switch. This made it easy to take down and I just used the existing junction box and cover plate from the old light to mount my wine bottle chandelier. With the wall switch OFF (throw the service breaker for extra safety) take down the old ceiling light and find the white (neutral), black (hot), and green (ground) wires. Pull them down out of the box and make sure you have enough room to go back with the new wire bundle you’re going to create.

Next, combine all the neutral wires from the lamp kits together into one pigtail. Do the same for the hot and the ground if present. Use some electrical tape to help hold them all together while you get ready to connect them to the junction box. Using an appropriately sized wire nut, connect the white pigtail of the lamp kit to the white (neutral) wire from the ceiling. DO the same with the Black (hot) and ground (green, if present). Carefully push the wires up into the junction box and allow the weight of the lamps to be carried by the bundled lamp cords over the junction box support bar.

Slide the fixture cover you used from the old light up into place to cover everything.

You should be able to flip your switches and bring light! Hope you enjoyed this tutorial and remember to work safely with any electricity!

Happy crafting.

~Megan


D.I.Y Fabric Chandelier.

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Hello Thursday Crafthackers.

You know, when I first looked at this DIY, I wasn’t sure how I felt about it. The more I looked at it though, the more I started to like it and started to brainstorm how I might do it a little differently. This tutorial is from A Beautiful Mess and you can find the full tutorial here. Probably my favourite thing about this DIY is that it is apartment friendly! To those of you who don’t have the space to do anything big, the permission to tear down walls or make too many holes in them, or who just plain want to have some nice looking things without the time/space/money investment of buying and installing a super statement piece, this may be for you! I just love how simple the supplies are:

The cooling rack you might be able to find at a garage sale, but you can find them at any kitchen store. Your fabric, any fabric store, but rather than browsing the shelves, I would recommend searching through their bargain bins, and if you’re lucky enough to live near an “end of roll” fabric store or one that has this type of section, then you can get a lot of fabric for super cheap. Your twinkle lights you can find at any hardware store (and if you go after Christmas you might be able to find them on sale). Your lace, you should also check for in bargain bins, or even see if a relative has any lace curtains that they’re getting rid of. You’ll also need 2 hooks that can screw into a wall and a drill.

Your first step of work is to cut your strips of fabric in varying widths, ranging from half an inch to two inches. This will help give depth and make your chandelier more interesting. Next, you can create texture by loosely stitching through them with the embroidery thread and bunching them before tying a knot in the thread. Here’s a video to show you how ruching works with fabric so you can get an idea of how easy this actually is. It can be done by hand for loose gathers or machine for tight. For your ruched strands, spread them out evenly and make sure to leave enough thread so you can tie them to the rack.

Starting about 5 rows from the outer edge, fold the ends of each strip of fabric over the rod, and hand stitch each foldd flap to the strip (see the photo above to see what words have trouble saying). You should vary shades, textures and thicknesses, but on the inside rows you should use more thicker ones. They will need to cover your lights and add density to your chandelier. Tie a knot at the end of the row (you can just sew continually without having to tie off on every strip) and trim  your thread. Repeat this until the outer 5 rows on each side have been covered. You will want to use thinner strips and lacy fabrics on the outer row.  Add 3 or 4 strips of fabric along the middle rows, just at each end (again, please check out the photo. You will be making a box of fabric). You will end up with a big hole in the middle for the lights to hang and for some thin strips to be added.

. Use a thin strip and wrap it around the edge of your sheet to cover the exposed metal. Stitch together at each end to secure, and do the same on the other side. It’s just like wrapping coat hangers to give them a little more pop.

Carefully attach your twinkle lights. Start with the plug near the back left (or right) corner and tie it near the top with a thin strand of fabric or with white twist ties. Continue to tie up your lights in three or four places, but be sure to let them hang down so that you will get light through the whole chandelier. Just don’t let them hang down below the fabric.. Cut 3 strips of fabric measuring about 2.5″ in width and stitch them together at the end, and do this 3 more tiems. You will need 4 sets of 3 pieces stitched together. I would start by making them double the length that you will need for hanging, as you will be braiding them and it is easier to trim fabric than it is to add. If you want to skip these steps entirely, you can just use sections of chain that you can buy at any hardware and even fabric store.

Pull one strand through the corner, and then braid the three strands together. This will support one corner. You’ll need to repeat this step for all 4 corners. If you have the patience to do the fabric  braiding, it will help hide the cords for the lights. You can attach your extension cord to the plug on the lights (which should be attached at one corner already), and braid it with the strand on that corner. Draw all 4 strands up so that they are equal in length and then tie them in a large knot.

Drill a pilot hole in your ceiling and hang a strong hook where you’d like to hang your chandelier – or you can use a hook you might already have. You may want to drill a second hook to hold your extension cord away from the light, and then you are ready to plug and have a statement chandelier! You can trim your fabric to be any height you like and you can do varying lengths if you prefer.

It looks pretty neat photographed in the daylight, but I think it would look so amazing at night. So to keep in mind, you don’t need to use cream fabric, if cream isn’t your thing.  You can always mix and match different colours, just be aware of how thick or transparent the fabric is. Black and red would look amazing, but you would need to make sure that your blacks are a little more transparent so that it doesn’t just block out all the light.  If you don’t mind seeing the twinkle lights, you could use lace, chiffon and other semi-transparent fabrics. If you’re feeling super arts and crafty, you can add rhinestones, or crystals, and if you’re a fan of things being rainbow, consider using multicoloured lights with cream. I hope that you enjoyed this simple and yet impressive tutorial.

Happy crafting!

~Megan

 


DIY – Exploding Death Star Lamp

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So I found this awesome little Gem over the weekend that I just knew I had to share with my fellow geeky crafters. 😀 It’s a fairly low cost project, but it will take you some time, and lots of painting.

Here’s your materials list:

  • IKEA PS 2014 Lamp
  • Light Grey Spray Paint
  • Masking Tape
  • X-acto Knife
  • Dark Grey Paint (either acrylic or spray depending on color options in your area)
  • Sealant Spray Paint

You’ll find the full step by step instructions over here. The quick and short of it though, is you’ll be spray painting the whole lamp shell with the light grey spray paint first, and marking and using masking tape to block certain areas off once it’s dried. After that you paint the whole thing again; with the darker spray paint if your lucky, of by hand if you’re not. Do one more round of spraying (2 if you’re paranoid) with a sealant spray and you’re done! It’s a pretty simple project that could easily be done in the afternoon if you have all the materials. 🙂 Then you too will be able to explode the Death Star whenever you like!


Creepy Glowing Pods

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Hi there Thursday Crafthackers,

I come to you today with another super cool tutorial for a funky Halloween decoration. These glowing pods look kind of like irradiated spider sacs, which seems super gross but is awesome for this creepy holiday. You can find the full tutorial here at DIY network.

Your materials and tools are quite simple. You’ll need white craft glue and water balloons that you will inflate, coffee filters – the round ones as opposed to the cones. a paint brush (at least an inch wide) and if you’re feeling super ambitious, some white/nude nylon stockings (keep it cheap and do yourself a favour by buying these at a dollar store).

Your first steps are quite simple, you’re going to inflate balloons (about 4-6 inches) and mix paper mache paste which is 4 parts white craft glue to one part water. Mix this mixture until it’s well combined and smooth. Cut your coffee filters into quarters.

Paint a layer of the glue mixture to each side of the coffee filter and apply it to the balloon. Cover each balloon with 4 layers of coffee filters.

Cover all your balloons with 4 layers of coffee filters, then tie strings to the ends, and hang them (at least 5 inches apart so they don’t bang into each other and stick) so that they can dry overnight.

Once your balloons are fully dry, you can cut the knots off of the balloons. This will pop them and you will be left with a lovely shell. You can choose to hang these in two ways. one, you can pierce two holes at the top of the balloon so you can thread some string to hang these beauties (seen above), or you can use the nylon pantyhose to create a little hammock by tying an end, and inserting the pod inside. With the nylons, you can hang them directly to a tree so they will look even more like a spider sac.

Crack a glow stick, drop it in each one – from a low height so you don’t break through the bottom – and hang at varying heights from your trees, house, or even just have them laying around the garden or stuck in a bush!

Hope you enjoyed it, guys, and happy crafting!

~Megan

 


DIY: Moroccan Candle Holders

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Hello Thursday readers,

It’s time for another easy yet satisfying DIY tutorial.  If you’ve read my posts, you’ll know how much I love doing things with plain glass, whether it be frosting, painting or drawing. I bring to you another project which you can do in mason jars, stemless (or stemmed, if you prefer) drinkware, or any other plain glass jar or container that you think would look great with a candle inside it.  This tutorial comes from Creme de la Craft and is super easy and looks a lot more complex than it actually is.

You will need a few things for this project, and all of them you should be able to find at your local craft store. You will need transparent glass paint in two different colours (you can get a few and mix and match as you see fit), puffy paint (sometimes called dimensional paint) in whatever colour you wish, but silver/gold/black seem to look the best, in my oh so humble opinion. You’ll also need a paper plate so a mess isn’t made, and your oven.

First thing you’ll need to do is pour your first colour of glass paint into the bottom of the glass so that the bottom is completely covered. Start tilting and turning your glass so that gravity can pull the paint up the walls of the container. Feel free to add more paint if you find you don’t have enough to swirl. While still holding your glass on it’s side, you can add your second colour of paint to the walls and continue to rotate the jar so that all of the walls have some of the second colour of paint on them.  Rotate the jar a little bit more to get the paint moving, and then turn the jar upside down on the paper plate and the excess paint will roll down the sides of the jar.  After a few minutes, if the walls aren’t fully covered, you may need to add a little more paint and repeat this step.

Let the excess paint drip down for about an hour, though you should rotate your jar every 15-20 minutes so that it doesn’t actually dry and stick to the plate. After the hour has passed, turn the jar upright and let it dry.

For a durable finish, let dry for a full 48 hours then bake the jar for 30 minutes at 200°F in a non-preheated oven. Allow to cool with the oven door open. (based on instructions from paint manufacturer – please follow the directions on whatever paint you buy.)
Using the applicator tip on the dimensional paint bottle, paint your desired pattern onto the bottle. For best results, first sketch a design on a piece of paper and practice using the paint before applying onto the jar. You can also search for designs. I find that Indian henna designs are a great inspiration and look fantastic when they’re done.
Happy crafting!
~Megan

Beautiful Sun Jars

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Hello Thursday Readers!

I have a super cool tutorial for you, especially for all the parties that will be coming when the weather gets nice and warm. They’re called sun jars and I think they’re super cool as the idea is that you can leave them out in the sun to charge so that they can glow through the evening’s darker hours. I love that they are reusable as well, and they  are super pretty. I’ll admit, they do take a little deconstructing that requires a couple of tools, but it is all pretty straightforward and I will link you to the full tutorial from Life Hacker so that if you you would like you can see an expanded version of my simple explanations.

 

You will need a few things before you get started. You will need 4 Mason jars that have lids that can be locked down and hermetically sealed – you can buy these at any hardware store for a pretty reasonable rate, and most of the lids for jars like these are pretty uniform, which is the important part. You will also need glass frosting spray paint (those who read my posts know that I love this stuff, and you can find it at hardware and craft stores), you will need sun lamps – the kind that you stick in your garden that charge during the day and glow at night. You can find these at hardware stores, and I’ve seen them at dollar stores, so take a look around and find the cheapest option for you.

There are a few tools you’ll need to aid in assembly: Pliers, a large, flat head screwdriver, a small Phillips head screw driver, packing tape, and possibly some snips that will cut metal, depending on which lamps you buy.

Your first step is to frost the jars. On the outside. But you will need to keep the lid clear, so please aim carefully or you can cover the lid with plastic wrap to avoid getting any frosting paint on it. Please follow the directions on the bottle.

Next you will need to take apart the original lamps. The original poster used some lamps from Lowes which you can find in the lighting section. They’re the “Portfolio Solar Black Pathlight” item#190519. Taking apart the solar lamps is much simpler than you might think. Use a screw driver or a skinny chisel to gently pry the solar panel loose from the aluminum housing. The wires and important stuff are nearly dead center so as long as you don’t shove the screw driver in deep or jerk it up hard, you’re very unlikely to damage anything.

Once you have the panel pried away from the housing you’ll see three glue-like smudges underneath. These smudges are some sort of silicone-like paste used to cover the screw heads. We didn’t bother to scrape it away, just push the head of a small Phillips head screw driver into it and start unscrewing. It isn’t very thick and scrapes away when you pull up the screw – see below!

Gently wiggle the electronic guts free from the aluminum case. The guts are pretty simple and sturdy, if you need to gently pry with the same screw driver you used to pop off the solar panels, everything should be fine.

This may look complicated and like delicate and dangerous work, but it’s not, really. just be careful not to damage any wires and you’ll be fine!

Unless you want to have to resolder everything, you’ll need to cut the aluminum housing to keep everything intact without the hassle of repairing all the wires. We used a small pair of snips to snip the aluminum and then two needle nose pliers to pull the metal apart and slip the panel and guts free. If you don’t have snips you can use two pairs of pliers to gently flex the metal back and forth until it snaps.

This is what your finished, disassembled  product should look like.

Once you have these, you will just need to secure them into the tops of the Mason jars. You can be more secure than using tape, but tape seemed to work just fine and was pretty easy. So I would stick with that. You can glue or caulk it if you’d like, but me? I’d stick with this easy and cheap and clean alternative, so long as everything holds together okay.

Now here’s the coolest part. If you’d like your glow lamps to be coloured, you will need to attach a filter. All you need for this, are plasticized labels from water bottles like Aquafina for blue and Gatorade for the orange/red tint. As long as the label is very translucent, you shouldn’t see a drop in the lamp brightness, either, which is super awesome. All you need is a 1″ square from the label and tape it over the light, though you’ll just need to tape it down very securely so you don’t get any white light escaping out of the sides.

There you have it! A super cool diy that looks really complicated that isn’t really that complicated at all. Have fun!

~ Megan


Last Minute Madness!

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Hello fair readers.

So there’s a couple days before Halloween and there’s still so much to do. If you haven’t started decorating yet and you want to do up your house for all the guys and ghouls to see, then here is a last minute DIY projects.  This super easy tutorial is really fast and can look so amazing when it’s done!

Makezine.com gives us a really simple tutorial for making some awesome mummy hands that you can stick out of your lawn.  The ingredients are so simple it hurts:

You need as many glowsticks for however many hands, and the same for the number of straws.

All you need to do is keep the straw against the inside of your arm and palm. And then you need to wrap your hand in masking tape with the sticky side against your skin. You may want to put some lotion on your hand to make it easier to remove when you’re finished.

And:

Once your hand is all taped up, use the straw as a guide to cut up to the finger. Once you’ve done this, you can just tape the cut shut.  You can keep the straw inside the hand to anchor it to the ground. When you’re ready to go, just crack your glowstick and insert into the casing.

Looks great right? A few of these on your lawn glowing in different colours is a great effect.  You can get even more creative and do the same thing to your foot, and even paint them with blood! You could even use green “painter’s” tape to make a glowing green hand.  If you’re feeling really ambitious, you can open your paint brushes and paint some bones or cracks or other things on them.

 

Happy crafting!

~Megan


Spooktacular Mood Lighting

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Hello there Thursday readers!

As those of you who have been reading know, I am all about Halloween decorating, especially on the cheap with all the mad DIY skillz you can muster. Today I bring you an inexpensive, easy and thoroughly impressive way to light up your home.  This would work particularly well in hallways but I think you can do it in any indoor room of the house.  I say indoor not because of any fire hazards, but because you don’t want the wind to ruin your sense of awe.

I wonder how many of you are Harry Potter fans, and how many of you guys will give a shout of approval when I show you a picture for the tutorial we’re going to do today:

That’s right! This is going to be a tutorial on recreating the candles that float around Hogwart’s on special occasions.  I am going to be using pictures from this tutorial as well as some of the steps, but not all of them may work for what you have around the house, so remember to improvise. I’ll also give other alternative recommendations for ways you can do the same thing.

This isn’t too complicated but, realistically I should have probably posted this weeks ago so you could start saving some of the supplies that are needed. The good news is that this mood lighting doesn’t need to be just for halloween, but it can be for Christmas as well. Or really any cool party that you want amazing lighting for.

There are many different ways that this tutorial can be done.  You can find them all over the internet. I’m going to post some photos from the various tutorials around, (as well as some links to their pages) but I’m going to give you some of my own methods and suggestions that would make things a little bit easier.  First, your tools:  A selection of toilet paper and paper towel rolls, scissors, a hot glue gun, white (or off white) craft paint and a brush,some white paper, a push pin, some  fishing line and some heavy duty tape. You’ll also need as many LED tealight candles as you have toilet paper rolls.  You can decide the best number for your hallway.


The first part is easy. Cut down any paper towel rolls to the sizes you want. It’s good to have a variety of sizes  but going smaller than a toilet paper roll will make them look a little stubby so try to keep them longer than that.  Next, you’ll need to apply your first layer of white paint around the outside of your tubes. Allow this to fully dry before moving on to your next step.

For this step, there’s a couple of ways to achieve the desired effect. The one that I think is probably the easiest is with a glue gun, where you basically let the glue drip like candle wax down from the top. Before you do anything else with these, allow them to dry.  Another DIYer recommended using thin foam to glue to the tops rather than having dripping glue, but they used a special cutter to get them looking nice, not scissors. (that tutorial is here).  Remember to keep the glue on the outside of your candle so that it’s easier to deal with the LED lights inside.

Next, the step illustrated above might seem a little convoluted, but bear with me. The reason for dipping the top of the candles in paint rather than using a brush is so that the brushes don’t leave brush strokes on the glue.  Alternatively, if you can find a way to spray paint them without spray painting everything else around, that would be an amazing option – this you could do in a couple of stages, spraing first the top half then the bottom to get full coverage.

Once your candles are dry, you’ are going to need to make some holes to string fishing line through.  Many LED tea lights are aboug 3/4 of an inch thick (that’s about 2cm for us metric folk), so it would be good to poke your holes about 3/4 of an inch from the top of your candle. You want the “wicks” to just be showing.  You should also cut lengths of fishing line to create a loop (which you can do by either tying the ends or hot gluing the ends together) which you will loop through the holes that you’ve made. This tutorial recommends about 10-20 inches in length, that’s 25-50cm, (varying between these so they all hang at different spots)

The next step is easy.  You want to trace a circle of paper the size of the tube and glue this to the bottom of your candle. You don’t want people to see that your candles are hollow.

We’re getting closer to the end.  The next step is to insert your LED light into the top of the tube.  Now, the tutorial writer claims that it should sit on the fishing wire without falling as the rest of the tube will hold it up. For me, I would probably pull the string out from the top of the tube to tape it to the bottom of the candle just to be sure.  Just make sure, however you decide to put them inside, that you will need to access the bottom to turn them on. Very important.

Your last step is to affix them to the ceiling. If you have a ceiling like mine that is flat, you can use some tape to hold the loop of fishing line in place since they’re not heavy. If you have a different ceiling, you may have to get creative.  If your ceiling cannot be taped, you will basically need to put up a fabric drape to hold them.  You can either make one  – This tutorial goes through it, or you can use tulle (which is found at your local fabric store) or a  blanket or tapestry.  If you need to use a hanging, all you need to do is either safety pin the fishing line to the  fabric (with the pin on the underside) or use small Christmas ornament hooks .

This image from diyave.com. A great example of someone using a galaxy tapestry as a hanging device.

When you get everything turned off and your candles turned on, you will have a magical ambiance that looks hugely impressive!

 

Happy Crafting!

-Megan